CLIMB FOR LIFE First Attempt...

Mountains like Mt. Shasta offer many unique challenges for climbers.  Learning the limits of things a climber can control, like physical and mental strength, equipment, and food and water, is fairly straightforward.  Learning to deal with the things beyond a climber’s control, like weather and terrain conditions, is another thing entirely.  In terms of good advice, one bit of advice that will always serve you well is to never climb into deteriorating weather.  It’s not wise, and it can get a person into big trouble.  But some days start off nice and turn suddenly, leaving few options.  This is a story of one such day.

 

On June 8^th, the Climb for Life was perched at Bunny Flat, elevation 6,900 feet, ready to carry the names of over 100 people being honored and remembered for their battle with cancer to the top of 14,162 foot Mt. Shasta.  The critical question was whether to go or not on a day that promised nothing other than uncertain conditions.  The rule adopted was that if stars could be seen at 2:00am, the climb would commence.  Around 1:45am, a sky full of sparkling stars sent the climb into motion. 

 

With temperatures in the low 20s and a layer of fresh snow on the trail the climb departed Bunny Flat at 2:30am.  The snow was very light and fluffy and made the trails of previous climbers less visible than normal.  With no moonlight to show the way, a headlamp was the only source of illumination.  The climbing conditions were good even with the low temperature, fresh snow, and low light

 

The climb reached Helen Lake (10,500) at 6:30am and the sun, rising behind the mountain, began creating a halo around the upper ridges, a beautiful sight.  The upper elevation atmosphere continued to look good.  Looking back into the valley did reveal a low lying fog and cloud cover upto 7,000-8,000 feet, but those clouds looked stable.  Along the route up Avalanche Gulch, 12 other climbers were making their way up.  After a quick stop to leave some unnecessary items for later recovery the climb progressed to the most challenging segment of the climb – Avalanche Gulch, a 2,500 foot wall of snow and ice that is the most likely place for climbers to turn back. 

 

The progress up Avalanche Gulch was steady for the first 2 hours.  A large group of 10 climbers had stopped to regroup and then decided to turn back, and the other group of two had ascended quickly, moving out of sight into the higher portion of the mountain.  This left the entire face of the mountain alone to the Climb For Life.  As the sun crept ever closer to bursting over the ridge, the climb moved up toward the top portion of Avalanche Gulch.  Here, the wind had re-arranged the snowfall to create areas with upto 18” of fresh snow while leaving other areas scrubbed of the new snow and left only with a layer of deep blue ice.  The footing between these sections was very different, and it became a point of focus to avoid the heavy loaded snow areas that tended to slip out from under each footstep in favor of the sure footing along the ice.

 

The moment when the sun reveals itself over the ridge and bathes Avalanche Gulch is always a mesmerizing one.  The landscape changes in the blink of an eye, and the glowing sun immediately warms the body.  As the sun came out I decided to defer stopping to apply sunscreen immediately in favor of waiting to stop at the Red Banks, which would be reached within 30-45 minutes.  With the sun warming the climb, and the Red Banks fast approaching, the daunting feeling of grinding along Avalanche Gulch was being replaced with the exhilaration of getting to the final stretches of the climb.

 

At long last, the final steps on the approach to the Red Banks were taken and the mighty, dark red, volcanic statues turned from a distant view to a towering neighbor.  Sitting next to the Red Banks and gazing down Avalanche Gulch is a great feeling.  The time was 10:30am, and the Summit waited another 1-2 hours and 1,100 vertical feet away.

 

In a moment, the climb and the day changed.  Over the Casaval Ridge to the North a quick, dark, and fast moving cloud formation flowed into Avalanche Gulch as fast as the sun has flooded the area from the opposite ridge.  In the span of 60 seconds, visibility reduced, the wind picked up to 20-25 mph, and a combination of new snow and wind driven snow began circling.  The term “white out” is one that describes when the snow on the ground and the clouds in the air merge into one field of pure white.  It takes a time to get used to this new point of view to say the least.

 

Hunkered down at 13,000 feet with swirling clouds, gusting winds and limited visibility put in doubt the summit bid that had seemed so sure minutes before.  Still, hope remained, but nearly 2 hours passed with no change in the condition.  While climbing any higher into the deteriorating weather was not an option, the prospect of picking a route back down the 2,500 foot wall of ice below wasn’t that comforting either.  Still, it was time to get down and recoup for another bid on a better day. 

 

It is frustrating to put so much effort and to come up short, especially with the feeling of responsibility to the names being carried up the mountain.  This climb was in their honor, and at first it seemed unsatisfying to have this first attempt end this way.  But slowly, as the Red Banks drifted back into the clouds a new perspective took shape on the climb.  The people in whose honor we climb are ones that have faced one of life’s great challenges.  They remind us that while it is sometimes only chance that threatens us with turmoil, it is only hope that can defend us from despair.  We will climb again, and be proud to spend another day with the names of those being honored, and those being remembered.

 

The Climb For Life is set again for the week of June 20^th.  Join KShasta as we once again look to Mt. Shasta and seek its summit to place the names of those who’ve battled cancer atop that mountain to soar for all days to come as a symbol of their bravery.  It is in their honor that we climb, and so we shall make the summit when the time is right!